The materials that go into a suit, an explainer

Michael Pascalis • March 9, 2022

Purchasing a suit can be a big investment, meaning it is important to get it right. This all starts with choosing the right material. Whilst an experienced bespoke suit tailor will guide their client through available options, it is worth taking time to educate yourself if you are in the market for a custom suit.

We have composed a short list of some of our finest luxury fabrics designed for suiting and their benefits to help you make an informed decision:

Wool - Due to wool being a natural material, it is comfortable and breathes well, meaning it can be worn during mid-day heat and on cool nights. It is an exquisite material to work with and tailor, as it keeps its shape and above all is easy to dye. At Pascalis Bespoke Tailoring we use Pure Merino
wool, the finest grade of commercial wool available. Pure Merino wool is naturally fine, silky in texture and extremely soft.

Cashmere – A suit that is 100 per cent cashmere, or a cashmere blend is regarded very luxurious. When speaking of cashmere, you could truly say that softness is its strength. Used in Roman and Byzantine periods, its popularity has been a continuous historical thread. The luxurious material itself is sourced from the process of natural shedding of their fine under hair.

Silk – Silk is one of the most affluent fabrics as it offers superior comfort and luxury. The material is wonderful for regulating temperature. It is a breathable fabric meaning it retains the body’s heat in cold weather and heat is expelled in warm temperatures. 
Worsted Fabrics – Worsted fabric is a compact textile known for its high durability. Worsted is a smooth compact woollen, spun from the longer fibres, more than 65mm in staple length, of the fleece. The essential feature of the worsted yarn is the straightness of the fibre as the fibres lie parallel to each other. In times gone by, long fine staple wool was spun in order to create worsted yarn, but other long fibres are also used today.


Cotton Gabardine
– Cotton Gabardine is often used by bespoke suit tailors to make pocket linings for business suits. Clothing made from gabardine is usually labelled as being suitable for dry cleaning only, as it is for typical wool textures. Gabardine may also refer to the twill-weave used for gabardine fabric, or for a raincoat made of this fabric.

For more information on the materials that go into a suit, and to speak to one of the finest bespoke suit tailor’s in Sydney,
contact Pascalis Bespoke Suit Tailoring on 9231 1211

Smarter tailoring
By Michael Pascalis October 24, 2025
Smarter tailoring, breathable fabrics, and better cuts keep you cool and professional—without resorting to shorts at work.
October 22, 2025
The conversation about summer dressing too often circles back to gimmicks. Shorts in the office, polo shirts in the boardroom, but these are symptoms of a deeper problem: we have forgotten how to make and wear proper clothing for the climate we live in. A summer suit, chosen with care, remains the most elegant answer. But not all suits are created equal. If the heat leaves you dreaming of linen drawstrings, it’s not the suit’s fault. It’s the wrong suit. Here are eight considerations that turn summer tailoring from punishment into pleasure. 1. Fabric First The single most important decision is fabric. Natural fibres are non-negotiable. Polyester and other synthetics trap heat and suffocate the skin; they are cheap in every sense of the word. Tropical wool, with its fine yarn and open weave, has been the quiet hero of summer tailoring for decades. Linen, either pure or in a wool blend, brings unmatched breathability and texture. Cotton offers a crisp alternative for the more casual office. The principle is simple: fabric should breathe. 2. Lightness of Weave Weight is not enough; weave matters too. A dense cloth, no matter how fine, will feel like armour in January. Fresco, hopsack, and other open-weave constructions let air circulate without sacrificing drape. They prove that you don’t need to bare skin to keep cool. 3. The Case for Unlined Jackets Every layer in a suit traps heat. A fully lined jacket in the peak of summer is as unnecessary as it is uncomfortable. Half-lined or unlined jackets offer structure without insulation. Stripped back to its essentials, the jacket still frames the shoulders, flatters the waist, and gives shape, only now it does so without suffocating the wearer. 4. Rethinking Fit The tyranny of the skinny suit has done more to ruin summer dressing than the thermometer ever could. Narrow lapels, shrunken jackets, and trousers cut like leggings may look sharp in shop windows, but in the real world they cling, sweat, and stifle. A summer suit demands room to breathe: a touch more fullness in the chest, pleats in the trousers, a slightly longer rise. These small concessions to airflow make all the difference. 5. Freedom of Movement Tailoring was never meant to be restrictive. The best summer suits allow ease: side vents that open as you walk, trousers that fall cleanly without gripping the thigh, shoulders that move without resistance. Comfort is not the enemy of style, but rather it is its foundation. 6. The Role of Colour Summer is no time for charcoal and midnight navy. Dark cloth absorbs heat and looks heavy against the season’s light. Pale grey, beige, sky blue are shades that reflect the sun and signal ease. Seersucker, with its puckered surface, even lifts the fabric off the skin to create tiny channels of air. If ever there was a fabric designed for August, this is it. 7. Care and Longevity Summer is unforgiving. Suits face sweat, humidity, and relentless sun. The careless solution is cheap rotation: buy more, wear them out, throw them away. The wiser approach is investment. A well-made summer suit, rested between wears and hung to air, will last for years. Quality not only looks better, it endures. 8. Dressing with Intent The final consideration is not technical but philosophical. A summer suit is more than cloth and cut. It is a statement that professionalism need not wilt in the heat, that respect for the occasion is not seasonal. To wear one well is to prove that elegance adapts. Shorts may make headlines; tailoring makes an impression. There is nothing radical about suggesting that a summer suit can be cool, comfortable, and dignified. It has always been possible. The knowledge is there, in the choice of fabric, the looseness of cut, the restraint of lining, the play of colour. What is required is not reinvention but remembrance: a return to tailoring that understands climate rather than fights it.  Eight considerations for made to measure suits for summer, then, but really one principle: good clothes work with the body, not against it. And in the heart of summer, a well-made suit is not a contradiction. It is liberation.
By Michael Pascalis August 16, 2025
From resizing beloved pieces to reviving vintage craftsmanship, learn why old clothes deserve a second life with professional tailoring.
By Michael Pascalis August 16, 2025
Discover why a Pascalis bespoke suit offers lasting value beyond fashion. Learn how true tailoring is an investment in style and substance.
By Michael Pascalis June 4, 2025
Learn how many shirts a professional man needs, which colors are essential, and how to build a versatile shirt collection for work and weekend wear.
By Michael Pascalis June 4, 2025
Discover how traditional tailoring has preserved its artisanal techniques for over 200 years.
By Michael Pascalis November 18, 2024
Menswear fashion seems to be fading, and yet there are so many good reasons to have a suit. Learn more with Pascalis
By Michael Pascalis November 18, 2024
The Weather is Heating Up. Time to Dress Down, Right? (Wrong!)
The Vest | Pascalis
By Michael Pascalis October 29, 2024
Too often the vest is overlooked when it comes to the modern suit. It shouldn’t be. Learn about the value that a vest brings to modern suits with Pascalis
By Michael Pascalis September 2, 2024
Sydney is becoming increasingly casual, but what does this mean for work places? It might actually be a bigger problem than you think.